(Re)discovered: Two Rhythms of Denmark

I’m just back from our family holiday in Denmark and there’s so much I want to tell you that I hardly know where to begin. If I had to put it into one sentence, this trip was about discovering and rediscovering.

For the first time, we visited Bornholm, a small Danish island in the Baltic Sea that completely blew me away. And after 17 years, I returned to Copenhagen. Two places. Two completely different experiences. Bornholm was calm, pure and nostalgic. Copenhagen was expressive, vibrant and full of energy. Both felt exactly right.

Bornholm: Where Time Moves a Little Slower

The first week we spent on Bornholm, and I think we all needed that more than we realised. Space. Freedom. Nature. Long days that seemed to move at a different pace.

Bornholm has golden beaches with sand so soft it feels like flour beneath your feet, dramatic cliffs, small fishing villages, glass and ceramic ateliers, and restaurants built around local ingredients. It has the charm of a place where there is still so much to discover, but always at your own slow pace.

What stayed with me most was how deeply craft and tradition are woven into everyday life. There is no obsession with the new for the sake of being new. Instead, there is a quiet appreciation for what already exists. What has been made well. What has stood the test of time. You see it everywhere: in the ceramic studios, the traditional smokehouses, the local galleries and even in the Airbnb interiors.

It feels as though time slows down here - not because nothing changes, but because people have chosen to value what matters. And perhaps that is what makes the island so special.

A Place That Celebrates Craft

One of the places that captured this spirit perfectly was Matter - House of Craft in Nexø. Housed in a former harbour warehouse, the space combines a beautiful showroom with the studios of ceramic artist Sarah Oakman and glass artist Maj-Britt Zelmer Olsen.

It is exactly the kind of place I love discovering while travelling. Not because it is trendy or hidden, but because it reflects the identity of the place itself. The connection between craft, material and local culture feels incredibly strong here.

The Taste of Bornholm

I wish I could come back with a long list of restaurant recommendations. The truth is, we spent almost every evening in the same place: Nexø Gamle Røgeri. By the third evening they already knew our order. The fish was extraordinary. Freshly smoked, incredibly pure and full of flavour. Nothing fancy. Simple tables in the garden, families gathering, people taking their time.

The food wasn’t trying to impress anyone. It simply focused on being good. And perhaps that’s exactly why it was.

A smoked herring sandwich (with a raw egg yolk - don’t ask, just trust me) quickly became my daily ritual.

Another favourite was Flor Deli, a small place serving beautiful seasonal dishes alongside a carefully curated wine selection. The kind of place you visit once and wish you had around the corner from home.

Copenhagen: A City Designed Around People

After a week of slowing down, Copenhagen felt like stepping into another rhythm.

The city is full of inspiration. Architecture. Museums. Food. Public spaces. People. At times it feels a bit overwhelming, as though every corner offers something worth paying attention to.

But what struck me most wasn’t any individual building or museum. It was how much Copenhagen is designed around everyday life. Parks, playgrounds, swimming spots, museums that offers strollers and wheelchairs, public transport that simply works. 

The city doesn’t just look good. It functions beautifully. 

And perhaps most importantly, old places are continuously given a new life instead of being torn down.

A Day at Louisiana

One of the biggest highlights of our trip was Louisiana Museum of Modern Art.

Not only because of the collection, but because of the way art, architecture and landscape come together. Located directly on the coast, the museum feels deeply connected to its surroundings. We spent an entire day there.

Between the sculpture park, the sea views, the children’s creative spaces and works by artists such as Miró, Kusama, Lichtenstein and Calder, it became one of those places we simply didn’t want to leave. 

Design That Shapes Everyday Life

The Design museum Denmark  offers another perspective on Danish culture. It is a place where you can trace the evolution of Danish design through the decades and understand why it continues to influence how we think about furniture, objects and living spaces today.

What I appreciated most was that the museum doesn’t present design as something exclusive. Instead, it shows how good design becomes part of everyday life. A very Danish idea.

Refshaleøen and the Art of Reinvention

If there is one place that perfectly captures Copenhagen’s spirit, it might be Refshaleøen. Once an industrial area, today it has become one of the city’s most interesting cultural destinations. Instead of erasing the past, Copenhagen chose to build upon it.

You can swim at La Banchina, enjoy a glass of wine by the water, explore Contemporary Copenhagen or simply wander through the area and appreciate how old industrial structures have been reimagined.

One of the most memorable experiences was Kengo Kuma’s installation at Contemporary Copenhagen, inspired by komorebi — the Japanese word describing sunlight filtering through trees. Using wood and brick, the installation beautifully expresses the deep connection to nature shared by both Japanese and Nordic cultures.

As part of the exhibition, visitors were invited to explore and play with the architecture and the same materials used in the installation.

We also waited in line for James Turrell’s immersive light installation. For a moment we almost gave up because dinner reservations were waiting. I’m very glad we didn’t. It was absolutely worth it! 

 

The Copenhagen Food Scene

The food scene deserves a story of its own. Copenhagen has mastered something many cities struggle with: world-class gastronomy without the pretension. The atmosphere is relaxed, welcoming and genuinely focused on making people feel good. There is nothing intimidating about it. 

Some of our favourites were Kødbyens Fiskebar, Locale 21, Riviera and Hart. Places where exceptional food and genuine hospitality go hand in hand.

Different Rhythms, The Same Lesson

I returned home inspired, but also reminded of something important. Bornholm showed me the beauty of slowing down and protecting traditions. Copenhagen reminded me how powerful good design can be when it is created for people.

Different rhythms, yet both feel deeply human.

And perhaps that is exactly why Denmark continues to inspire me - so much so that this trip is already turning into a curated edit: objects that carry Bornholm's quiet craft and Copenhagen's design energy. More soon!